Japan

July 24-28

We land at the Tokyo airport, and soon realize that we have no idea where we're going. We crack open the laptops and get online, and are relieved to see that Arthur's friend (and guitarist for Ra Ra Riot) is online too. We get some directions from him, and just make a bus that will drop us by a central subway station. It's sort of refreshing to learn that most people don't speak English, and eventually figure out where we need to go. Our major landmark for the club we're going to is a big ferris wheel, so we're stoked when we see it on the subway. We arrive 2 minutes before Ra Ra Riots hits the stage, and we watch the show from backstage.

We go out with them post-show, and get ushered around like we're members of the band. Unexpected and deeply appreciated. We enjoy a wicked sushi dinner and crash in their hotel. The next day they head to Kyoto, and since we're now groupies, we join them on the bullet train and find a sweet hostel with traditional Japanese-style rooms.

They have a few days to kill before their show, and we spend most of the time walking around the city and visiting temples. Many culinary highlights, including more sushi dinners with the band, personal japanese bbq at a cozy restaurant, drinking thick green tea, made by whisking pulverized tea leaves and water, and a sushi lunch by conveyor belt. You even get a prize for "bussing" your dirty dishes: you put your empty plate in a little slot by your table, get a coin, which allows you to play a game and win a prize.

Arthur and I were totally overwhelmed by the kind and courteous culture. I've never been smiled at or bowed to so much in my life. Their Japanese tour manager took care of the band, and us, like family. And then there was the delivery truck driver who, when his vehicle was blocking the sidewalk, stood next to the truck and held his arms out to make an area of 'safe passage' around the truck. And how in every train a beverage and snack cart would come around, with the vendor bowing every time she left a car.

Singapore Airport

July 23

Fly from Bali to Singapore, rock the 8 hour overnight in the airport. Heavily armed guards start patrolling around midnight, I assume for our safety, but suddenly I don't feel as safe. Luckily we find a cushy wingback chairs in which to pass the time. And coffee.

Bali

The Project is sending me to the Association of Tropical Biology and Conservation conference in Bali, so off we go! We’re also tacking on a trip to Japan to be groupies for Ra Ra Riot’s tour, and see Arthur’s best mate from architecture school (Milo), who’s their guitarist. And, then, a trip home.

July 16^th – July 23^rd

Christmas Island – Kuala Lumpur – Bali

If you’re flying north of out CI, then your only option is to go through Kuala Lumpur. We have an overnight there, and spend the evening walking through downtown, admiring the bright lights and city life. Our hostel is right by Chinatown, and not too far from the city center. We amble about (unfortunately, camera forgotten) and find a cool looking pub. It’s also happens to be a hookah bar, so we drink fruity drinks, watch World Cup highlights, and smoke the hookah. Then, the search for food leads us to a great Lebanese restaurant, and some gelato on the walk home. All in all a nice little slice of KL.

Next morning we fly to Bali, and soak in the big sandy beaches. Great little hotel with a funky pool and big, open balconies. There are three main restaurants right next to the hotel, and they all search cheap, delicious food. I’ve never dined so close to the ocean before, with my bare feet in the sand. They set up tables at the high tide mark, and just sink the table and chairs in the sand.

We have the weekend before the conference starts, so we head up to Ubud for a couple days. It’s supposedly a ‘spiritual center’ but currently it’s got more of a tourist-trap feel to it. Probably one of the coolest things is the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, an extensive preserve right in the center of Ubud. It’s a little surreal walking out of the busy shops and into the lush rainforest filled with hundreds of bold little long-tailed macaques running around.

And it’s also a great jumping off place to get out and explore the mountains and rice fields. So we sign up for a biking tour of the surrounding area. The next morning we’re up early and travel up to the Kintamani village and have breakfast overlooking Mount Batur, where the view is absolutely breathtaking. You can still see the darkened areas on the landscape of the old lava flows.

Next stop is a coffee plantation, where we watch them roast the beans and get the taster’s choice platter –the ginseng coffee is both our favorites. We also taste “Kopi Luwak” (Civet Coffee) which is made with the digested (pooped out) beans consumed by the Civet (blurry picture is picture of a civet sleeping at the plantation; clear picture is one taken off the ‘net). The Civet selects the yummiest coffee berries, and while being processes in the civet belly, its digestive enzymes start to break down the beans, removing some of the bitter flavor. The Civet feces are then collected, thoroughly washed, dried, and roasted. This extensive processing yields a coffee that’s unique with less bitterness than your average cup of joe. It was good, but not the best taste of coffee I’ve had – likely because “Bali coffee” is prepared by very finely grinding the beans, and then adding water. No coffee filter, no French press. Because you don’t separate the ground it’s a little gritty, and a little bitter.

Fully caffeinated, we hop on the bikes. We basically coast downhill for a few hours, which includes a sweet ride on a boardwalk through a rice paddy, and a stop to visit a Balinese house. Overall a great way to explore central Bali.

Oh, and I can’t forget to mention this sweet little funky crunchy coffee shop back in Ubud town. Great coffee, food, ambiance, and the night we had dinner some great live acoustic music, too. End up chatting with some blokes from the U.K. and we make a night of it, enjoying the local beers and finding our way across the street to this crazy third-floor bar that feels distinctly like you’re in a tree house.

Then back to Sanur for the conference. It’s a nice week of hearing talks and talking science, and then chilling on the beach. I’ve never seen a conference venue located so close to the ocean before (maybe 30 meters, max). My talk goes well, and am able to catch up some fellow ant-dorks I hadn’t seen in awhile. Ah, science.

Umpiring a bunch of cricket-loving Aussies playing a new game: Softball

Sunset from Isabel Beach, across the street from our flat, and next to the mine's cantilevered loading dock.