Japan

July 24-28

We land at the Tokyo airport, and soon realize that we have no idea where we're going. We crack open the laptops and get online, and are relieved to see that Arthur's friend (and guitarist for Ra Ra Riot) is online too. We get some directions from him, and just make a bus that will drop us by a central subway station. It's sort of refreshing to learn that most people don't speak English, and eventually figure out where we need to go. Our major landmark for the club we're going to is a big ferris wheel, so we're stoked when we see it on the subway. We arrive 2 minutes before Ra Ra Riots hits the stage, and we watch the show from backstage.

We go out with them post-show, and get ushered around like we're members of the band. Unexpected and deeply appreciated. We enjoy a wicked sushi dinner and crash in their hotel. The next day they head to Kyoto, and since we're now groupies, we join them on the bullet train and find a sweet hostel with traditional Japanese-style rooms.

They have a few days to kill before their show, and we spend most of the time walking around the city and visiting temples. Many culinary highlights, including more sushi dinners with the band, personal japanese bbq at a cozy restaurant, drinking thick green tea, made by whisking pulverized tea leaves and water, and a sushi lunch by conveyor belt. You even get a prize for "bussing" your dirty dishes: you put your empty plate in a little slot by your table, get a coin, which allows you to play a game and win a prize.

Arthur and I were totally overwhelmed by the kind and courteous culture. I've never been smiled at or bowed to so much in my life. Their Japanese tour manager took care of the band, and us, like family. And then there was the delivery truck driver who, when his vehicle was blocking the sidewalk, stood next to the truck and held his arms out to make an area of 'safe passage' around the truck. And how in every train a beverage and snack cart would come around, with the vendor bowing every time she left a car.